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travel far now

a sporadic archive of rants & revelations from life on the road

substack essays

Westgate Nairobi Terror Attacks

9/23/2013

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From the relative peace, safety, and distance of my perch in Chicago, IL, in the USA, I can't stop thinking about what unfolded in Nairobi, at Westgate Mall -- one minute normal, the next, pierced with terror. Over 62 people killed and shot in attacks by Al-Shabaab -- the "striving youth" of Somalia, an Al-Qaeda cell. I read about how in February 2012 they quarreled with Al-Qaeda and were losing power. A writer with Think Progress writes that this attack weakens their cause, that this is a sign of desperation. Others say it's about revival of image and impact. Revenge for Kenya's military intervention in Somalia in 2011. Their deal, waging jihad against enemies of Islam. Think Boko-Haram. Even Al-Qaeda thinks that Al-Shabaab are too extreme, too violent, too reckless. Now that's saying something. 

Over the last forty-eight hours at the Westgate Mall in Narobi, poets and diplomats were killed, everyday people too. Others still are being held hostage. This kind of terror is horrifying any time it happens because it is so threatening to the "ordinary," to whatever kind of normal we think we all deserve.  And Al-Shabaab is on Twitter live-tweeting their case, justifying this launch.  Their military leader actually has a chance to defend the #Westgate attack via Q&A with Al Jazeera. 

Ghanaian Poet Kofi Awoonor was among those in the attack. His last poems eerily attest to the eternal. He writes, 

And death, when he comes
to the door with his own
inimitable calling card
shall find a homestead
resurrected with laughter and dance
and the festival of the meat
of the young lamb and the red porridge
of the new corn

Resurrected with laughter and dance. A Resurrection. A laughter revival. How do we stage it? It would take a massive, collective detachment from our screens and phones, calendars and chores.  At what point will "hope and history rhyme," how do we reach for the shore on the far-side of revenge? Thinking of Seamus Heaney, how he helped us with Double-takes of feeling. 

History says, Don't hope
On this side of the grave,
But then, once in a lifetime
The longed-for tidal wave
Of justice can rise up
And hope and history rhyme.

Call miracle self-healing:
The utter, self-revealing
Double-take of feeling.
If there’s fire on the mountain
Or lightning and storm
And a god speaks from the sky

That means someone is hearing
The outcry and the birth-cry
Of new life at its term.

The birth-cry.

I  find it interesting that this Al-Shabaab is about a "striving youth" movement. While living in East Africa, mostly Zanzibar and Tanzania, I was mostly friends with the young ones. With over half of the country under 25, it's probable, but still a somewhat strange dynamic for me, a woman in her late 30's. I found that the young ones are full of fire, ready for change, striving, reaching for creativity and outlets for creative expression.  They want to speak and be heard, be part of a larger conversation, take the floor, have a place, but even more so, just be normal, find rhythms, have enough change in their pockets for lifts on the dala-dala to and from friends and family. There is so much power in youth -- how then to channel it for good -- how not to mangle and bend Islam's strong pillars of faith in the name of justice, how then to listen to young people when striving for something greater than all of us? How then to tap the enormous potential of young people?

I realize that the story of Somalia is a sordid one, not simple enough to couch in terms of youth empowerment. NGO speak won't rescue us from this one. But I can't help but wonder what an Al-Shabaaber would say in a poetry workshop, or a philosophy class on seeing, or even any old conversation where his or her experience mattered to the larger chorus? 

I think too about John Berger today. About his notes on ways of seeing -- the world, ourselves. Of poetry he writes, “Every authentic poem contributes to the labor of poetry… to bring together what life has separated or violence has torn apart… Poetry can repair no loss, but it defies the space which separates. And it does this by its continual labor of reassembling what has been scattered.”  
― John Berger

There has been a scattering, a need to defy the space which separates. A reassembling of what got scattered. 

Divine Double-Take on Westgate
Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein

The Westgate bodies were so dead
They were counted twice.

And the horror was so horrific,
We doubled the horrible utterance.

And the attackers doubled as men
And as women, confusing the army.

It was a like a war situation, a double
War on me and you.

And everyone should have had two names:
A Muslim name and a secular name,
One to save you, one to get you killed.

And everyone should have carried two guns
One to shoot your attacker, and one to shoot
Me into the shape of mangled, metal shame.

And everyone should have had two prayers
Memorized, one for the Prophet, Mohammed,
And one for any other goddess of choice.

Because don’t you know all the gods
Are not just in love with us, but in love
With each other as well? A massive, holy

Orgy of divine obsession with the other?
A euphoric, ribbon of grinning for the god
In each us, growing green from the seed

Of suffering? 

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Othering Other

9/19/2013

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I've spent nearly four years thinking about being "Other" -- living in Africa demands that you at least consider it. How you deal with it is another question. Deny, augment, diminish, ignore, defend, cajole. Here's an essay that a traveler wrote about being OTHER in Ethiopia. http://advokatdyavola.wordpress.com/2013/09/17/foreigner/ 

There was also this show called MZUNGU that the Kilimanjaro Film Institute -- a photography show that interrogated the notion of Other from Tanzanian teens' perspectives. It was an interesting show but one that made me wonder if the images perpetuated these stereotypes or worked to break them down. Tough to say unless dialogues are a part of the show. Not sure if there were really formal conversations but we did talk informally and most agreed that it was time Tanzanians critiqued the behavior and language and power of whites/foreigners. 

What were some of the categories? 

Big Backpacks. Bad Dancing. Peculiar Shopping. The Scandinavian Volunteer with Hair Braids. Mzungu Dress. White Women Who Love Rastas. White Women Who Love Kitenge. White Women Who Love Head Wraps. 

i think it's a long over-due conversation. The responsibility all of have to address difference with respect, love, curiosity, patience. To understand the rage and negativity and even "bad luck" we may pose to locals, and to understand in ourselves the reactions that give rise to self-detachment from the world that presents itself to you. 

We are not all traveling for pleasure and it's not guaranteed that we are well-received where we go -- we can't expect that anymore than a foreigner in the West can expect to step into a set of values and systems without any struggle. Border crossing, culturally, spiritually, emotionally -- it's not a simple task. 

Once again, and always, POWER is the ultimately concept to critique and challenge -- and the relationships therein that sediment or loosen the ties that bind us from understanding one another. 
 
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Impossible America

9/11/2013

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Definitely back in the old hood. I have no pages left in my passport. I'm astounded by the speed at which these photos upload. I am repelled by the tarmac, treeless sun-assault of shopping mall parking lots. My dollars are bleeding out of my leather bag. Spent 3 bucks on a bus ride. Wish I could snap my fingers for a blue Bajaj, but no. Bought a pair of leggings designed in America, made in China, sold by Arabs. People don't say hi to you on the streets. But they explain directions on the kinds of coffee available as if you're at the DMV and have to pass a test. America, impossible America. I am going to try very much to love you!  Was sitting at the new Intelligentsia in Logan Square. This emo-music! This air-con! This pay-to-park bullshit! This tatoo-brew! These fancy hair cuts! These amped-up pastries! The solo man hunched over his lap top repeated 100 times! The great design work on throw-away coffee cups! I could go on. I  got myself an old-school Chi-town area-code. This is my number for while, cawwwl me: 1.312.493.9705 Impossible America. The sinuous denial of this place, this tethered, tentative nation, this nation of extremities, deformities, help! I know it'll be fine, but seriously. We are so far-flung, so fragmented. It's a wonder.
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Last Days in Addis

9/8/2013

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Picture
Addis -- resisting the impulse to flee to #Harar is full time work, an energetic discipline, a warped bond to the worshipful dream in exchange for a potentially crushing reality. No Harari safari for me this time, but I can almost feel a double version of myself there right now, calling me home  to the city of saints. 

Oh, Addis! Your hot boxes of smoky, tiny, twinkle-lit, dark bars! Blaring old-school Ethiopian jazz, reggae, & soul, everyone dancing with a St. George's in hand, bumping, swaying, grinding, forgetting all about the wet, rainy, dark night beyond the heavy beat. 

Went to visit the Red Terror Martyr's Museum on a rainy, overcast day. And then I sought refuge in 1,000 machiato's. Such is life in Addis. This museum was haunting -- bones of student revolutionaries exhumed and on display in glass boxes. The madness of Mengistu. The darkest years in Ethiopian history. The terror of ideology set on fire in the mind. It's terrifying to believe you have enemies. The things you'll do to protect yourself. http://rtmmm.org/

These are the songs you hear in Addis: Teddy Afro's tribute Bob Marley in Shashaemene. http://www.diretube.com/teddy-afro/bob-marley-video_6d178461c.html. 

Rosh Hashana happened while I was here. Ralized that there IS one synagogue in Addis, near Shoa Bakery in Piazza. A day too late for the ancient cry of the shofar. So imagined myself there among all the Jews who found themselves there in prayer today. Let me inscribe myself into the book of forgiveness, next year in Jerusalem. I can't explain it exactly, but there's a Jewish energy here in Ethiopia. Tigriniya is almost exactly the same as Hebrew. The Jews met in Gondar for Rosh Hashana dinner, but I was also a day late to buy a ticket by bus or plane. I lingered near the edges of my Judaism, but couldn't find an entrance this time. 

Last 24 hours in Addis! Cheers on the streets from throngs of viewers watching the match between CAR and ETH. A visit to Andenet Amare - Betegna's studio & lunch with her brilliant friends. Shopping in and between the earth dug up all crazy everywhere to make way for Addis train system. Horns honking. On the search for greens. Thinking about a leather bag. Thinking of home. Making that mind-walk across oceans, now. Loving it all.

These last moments in Addis: endless layered fruit juice, machiato, bundles of wondo-chat, shoe-shines, skinny jeans, poof-top hair-do's, Nyala smokes, broke-down cinemas, jazz blaring on the streets, fresh injera dipped in berebere sauce, tiny twinkling bars, cheering football fans, haunting religious beats, the madmen chasing, jeering, pushing, the worshipers wrapped in white scarves early morning, girls in huddles singing new years songs and beating drums, the village ladies with babies on their backs lost in some dream-nightmare of what Addis could be, those old blue Peugeot taxis, checkered this and hot pink that, will soon be stored in this poet's overstuffed storage room of image & feeling. Chaw, Addis. Hello, Chicago!  Can't forget those Addis fonts -- socialist, art-deco, official, Parisian.  And those tiny Addis bookstalls selling old newspapers and pamphlets with King HS portraits on the covers, mixed with self-help & chemistry text books, and Marx and Lenin works. Also, Swahili-Amharic dictionaries. 

Last night was insane --  was here for this amazing moment in Ethiopian football history --  http://addisrumble.com/?p=2618
Was here on the streets of Addis for this madness celebration of ecstatic joy! Streets overflowing with love, shirtless, face-painted boys jumping in huddles of grunting cheer, the Habesha flag waving and quivering with pride. Ethiopia wins! An amazing moment.

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    Essays by Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

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    Bio:

    Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein is a writer, poet, editor and vintage collector based in Skokie, Illinois. 

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