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travel far now

a sporadic archive of rants & revelations from life on the road

substack essays

On that one year I went chasing dreams in Harvard Yard

8/25/2026

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BOSTON, BUT it was really Cambridge, because I was there for a year thinking I’d go deeper down the tracks of arts and learning, and took out a 50,000 dollar loan with three clicks of the mouse—a special deal just for chumps like me, who still believed in the promise of higher education at the highest peaks.

I got the degree but I am not even sure where I placed the paperwork and the program I attended is now defunct—arts in education, a relic from the past—all the notes I took on consciousness and liberation, growing mold in the basement.

I used to sing the body electric of Greene, Arendt, Freire, Lightfoot, Duckworth, and Dewey, the imagination as the final frontier of freedom. How we studied the moon in journals that traced its wax and wane, just so we could link it all back to Piaget and the child’s proclivity toward sense-making on her own terms.

Who else would let me write about autobiography as a political stance in those days, unless I had trekked in my brown four-door Honda to the eastern coast, where I first experienced a ferocious “nor’easter” and also met several time travelers on campus who, of course, wore trench coats!

I was soaring with anxiety in those days before I turned thirty. On the steps of the nightclub at midnight on my birthday, I remember asking my friend if life would ever feel like it was getting easier?

My dear friend, older than me by a few years, assured me that the answer was no, but she also taught me the pleasures of ambling and smelling the many flowers along the way, and ordering ice cream every day from the shop where the counter folk finally memorized my order: mint chocolate chip.

I remember the listening chambers and the steps that led up to the grand libraries and the ones that led to the basement bars where men in cozy wool sweaters waxed poetic about pedagogies of the oppressed to former school teachers who’d signed up for radical reformation.

I thought I might become a professor one day, so I listened on occasion to these sermons on the mount.

But I was more interested in Clifford, the vagabond of a guy with the bulbous nose and a dragon’s mouth of fiery breath who leaned against the window outside the quaint cafe that sold amazing raspberry muffins, where most of the students in the ed school went when the must and dust of the old library disturbed our lungs.

That’s where I met Michael, who was so skinny that everyone thought he had a drug problem but was afraid to tell me! He smoked a lot of weed but he was just skinny and pale by nature!

Ours was a counter affair.

I asked for muffins and lattes, he handed me these treats like I was a dignitary or mystic.

Who doesn’t fall a tiny bit in love with their baristas all throughout a lifetime?

Michael had a long beard and a twinkle in his eyes and he professed his love for zines and obscure poetry so of course, that was an invitation to his attic bedroom.

Michael lived in a small town just outside of Boston in an old purple Victorian mansion with a lush garden and it’s there where I hid after I’d secured my master’s degree—too stunned to drive all the way home without knowing first what I’d given up to get here.

That summer was full of floor picnics and sleeping in late and borrowing the Pantene shampoo that belonged to the woman who owned the house and who tolerated me because Michael was a dear friend of her husband’s but why was I staying there for so long and did I live there now?

Michael and I talked vaguely in the sunshine about the tsunami that had torn through villages halfway across the world. We talked about his mom, who disappeared one day with a Harley gang. We talked about his love of lava lamps and antique pencils, his obsession with the poet Ira Cohen in Brooklyn, and his collection of wayward poets who’d moved to Providence. Did I want to take a day trip there to hear some live poetry?

I am not sure what I learned about art or education that year, but I learned how to manage my fears after a surprise rash in my crotch made me feel like a sinner for sleeping with men I’d met on dating apps. That was before I met Michael, of course, and I confused his cocoon for protection.

Michael performed in a noise rock band—I had no idea the group was kind of famous—Sunburned Hand of the Man—I went to hear them play a few times, and spent many long hours in a random house full of secondhand furniture that reeked of cigarette smoke, listening to them rehearse while sipping on warm beers out of cans.

A little part of me knew I didn’t belong anywhere near these guys but the biggest lie I told myself was to keep trying.

The program I signed up for that year no longer exists—dissolved like the other dreams of that decade—into thin air and waves of I don’t care. I still speak to some of the friends I met that year—poets and artists and filmmakers making art against all odds—I suppose that I am, too, in my own way, insisting on my voice as a wave in the ocean.

Michael and I produced one tiny book that summer: Birds of Prey, typed on the old green typewriter guarded fiercely by a black cat that lived in the attic with him.

I’m also realizing how much we’re all in recovery—and recovering from—the collapsing of dreams we were living in as solid as houses that then crumbled—leaving us intellectually homeless, perhaps, and spitting stories from the past.

That guy Clifford who stood in front of the bakery cafe had memorized the bible and when we talked, he’d try to prove it to me, even though I didn’t ask, by asking himself a trivia question and then, in the same breath, answering it. He was always right!

Jesus stayed close to Clifford as he wandered the country—he said he’d come by train from California.

I eventually drove home at the end of that summer and got a place in Wicker Park. Michael packed me six American Spirits, the yellow-pack kind, and I smoked them all at one rest stop, where I remember calling him and crying that I wanted to come back.
​

But we both knew I didn’t really want to return to Boston. I just didn’t know yet how to come home.
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On having a dream in which my mother returns from the land of the dead

6/29/2026

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MY MOTHER RETURNED from the dead in a dream the other night. She appeared at the door and told me she needed a place to sleep and asked to come inside. I told her we thought she had died. I panicked. We got rid of your bed, I told her. We gave away all your things.

It didn’t matter, she said, and pushed her way through the door and into the hallway of the home she’d made her own with wild wallpaper featuring flowers and birds. I need a place to sleep, she said, having returned from the dead, the Arcadia home was of course the obvious choice.

But I’d already been living there for about six years and the rooms of this home she’d made for her daughters had shifted slowly like the dunes—rearrangements had led to a feeling of derangement—and nothing was recognizable to the version of her who slipped out of time-space eight years prior.

So I made a proposal that I thought made sense. You can sleep in the basement, I said. The basement? She repeated with incredulous disdain. Yes, the basement—the dark, dank and dusty dungeon with asbestos tiles and abandoned bar—where we did our laundry and dried it but otherwise avoided it! It was scary. 

I’m not sleeping in the basement, she told me. But I tried to convince her it was a good option—lots of space to make it her own, and a table down there to continue with her crafts, if she so chose—to no avail.

When we report back on our dreams, let’s be honest—a lot gets improvised. We fill in the blanks where the unconscious dream state left us lacking essential information. The dream really came to me in only four beats: 1. the knock at the door, 2. the request for refuge, 3. the basement discussion 4. the conclusion, that she would not, after all, be staying at the house on her tour back to the land of the living.

But what she said to me at the end of the dream, I remember clearly:

“We all need a nice place to land [when we return from the dead],” her exact words.

When I woke up, I cobbled together the puzzle pieces of the dream so I could tell it to my sisters, who I knew would appreciate the way our bold, dead mother still speaks through us. Every so often, one of us will hear her voice emerge in a phrase that was uniquely hers, and we'll say it aloud to the others for confirmation: "Isn't that neat?" "Over my dead body." "You know what this is?" Stuff like that.

The dream startled me. What did it all mean? Sometimes I’m self-conscious about the way I’ve assumed many aspects of my mother’s life after she died. I drive her Black Honda—one of the last remaining stick shifts on the planet—and I cook her recipes in her kitchen. I picked up where she left off with her obsession with vintage and antiques. I love Michigan because she loved Michigan. We’re still collecting Victorian teacups. (Help!) 

The dream made me wonder if she was trying to nudge me out of the nest, so to speak, to remind me that this place was made by her, and I was living out her vision, that I should try to work on my own. 

Many of the details disappeared as the days wore on, but that last statement she made in the dream stuck with me. How we all need a nice place to land when we return from long journeys to other worlds—other times, spaces, places, phases in our lives—we all need to feel that when we return from somewhere else—be it the land of the dead or the land of the unfamiliar—we know where we can rest our weary bodies.
​

I only hope that if and when she returns home next time, I’ll be more gracious and mature as an adult daughter greeting her dead mother at the door, and tell her she’s welcome to stay here for as long as she needs or desires before she heads out again, as I know she will.

Our mother was always very busy—out and about—and headed for the open road.
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On homelessness and language as a makeshift shelter

2/2/2026

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I was homeless for years but didn’t know it. I told myself a story about staying free and decisions unraveled from there. I lived with roommates, in borrowed spaces, rented rooms, arranged derangements, I loafed and lounged and perfected the role of wanted guest. Then, life boomeranged me back to my childhood home, the same one where my little self took hot baths and did headstands on the steep steps covered in mustard yellow carpet. i’m still here, looking out the same windows in the upstairs bedroom, keeping an eye on the neighborhood, including myself looking back at me.
​

“Waking up we are parted but in the dream world, we are the same.”

I never dreamed in Swahili, though I studied and spoke the language on and off for decades. It’s impossible for me to read a novel or newspaper in the coastal language that functions like a fishing net. But I still have recordings of myself speaking with such fluency as to convince myself I became someone else to speak it. In these recordings, I hear a woman alone and far from home working hard to overcome her loneliness and prove her devotion to love of the other. I hear a woman looking to move into a language as if it were her home. I hear a woman on the front porch of this language, knocking on its front door, peering through the windows.

Some of these recordings appear on tape cassettes from the 1990s, others are voice memos on my phone from the years when I was interviewing folks for stories about mega ports, octopus hunters, the textiles trade.


In my contacts, I have saved the numbers of at least 20 taxi drivers, first names only. I was driven great distances down all kinds of highways and backroads by men who blurred lines between driver and father, brother and friend. Karim used to pick up me in town and drive the hour down pocked, canopied roads to the coast in one straight trip. I sat in the back and read my old New Yorkers while he chewed on sunflower seeds in the front, listening to the radio. But over time, I sat in the front and he began making stops along the way. By the end of it, I was sitting cross-legged on woven mats atop cement floors with his extended family, eating with our hands from communal trays of warm stews with rice.

What is the story I’m trying to tell about Zanzibar by returning to it over and over again? I’ve circled the story that has no center for at least a decade now. Is this a story about faith and forgetting, exile and return, love and regret, heart expansion or intelligence? I say, if you can’t “put the center in the center,” then you have no choice but to begin anywhere and then trace the circle along the perimeter until you arrive back where you entered the story.

“Once upon a time, I took an 8 a.m. Swahili class.”
“Once upon a time, I fell in love with a man I thought was a fisherman.”
“Once upon a time, I packed up my apartment in Chicago and moved across the world.”
“Once upon a time, I flew to Zanzibar to study Swahili at the local university with plans to stay four months, and ended up staying for nearly a decade.”
“Once upon a time, my mother called me home from Zanzibar when she was dying.”

I’m reading the last few chapters of Kiran Desai’s “The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny.” She writes about how the worst things that happen to us are often the luckiest things, too. Nothing too terrible happened to me in those years I went offline to everyone I loved at home, but self-exile is both a kind of liberation and a punishment, let’s be honest. I like to think that I’m a writer who can “hunt what is hunting her,” but shame is a nasty little beast that slithers more than it stomps. I was a woman who traveled without the company of a man for many years. I’m still trying to conjure—intuit—the feelings that stalked me all that time as silent companions. I'm still making my way back home.
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    Essays by Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

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    Bio:

    Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein is a writer, poet, editor and vintage collector based in Skokie, Illinois. 

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