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travel far now

a sporadic archive of rants & revelations from life on the road

substack essays

On leaping and learning to stay in one place

8/5/2026

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THE AWARD GOES TO me for eating a roasted sweet potato with cottage cheese for breakfast! Such a practical meal, so healthy, so tasty, so real.

I’ve already told you my current feelings on time—how we trek the horizontal, dream of the vertical—but I haven’t mentioned any of my possessions, what might get catalogued in the identity slog. I own many things but they’re all for sale. I still need to feel like I could pick up and leave at any moment.

A lingering instinct.

Can’t remember the last time I danced at a party. I used to host big parties to ring in the new year, and for a while, I even handed out the lyrics to “Jolene” by Dolly Parton, and led group singalongs in the various living rooms of my thirties. Those were fun nights full of hope with just a dash of fear to keep me on my toes.

Later, I would become a flawed caretaker—character—chair actor—caregiver to my sweet daddy, after running for years away from home, I landed in the heart of it all.

Some people spend their whole lives learning to leave. I spent most of mine learning to stay.

“The afterlife of madness” means letting go of the “definite idea” of the warped reality that shaped your dreams and visions in the first place.

An old friend of mine lost her old friend when she fell down the stairs. I don’t know my old friend anymore but I know the tumble of this tumultuous friendship left imprints.

Sometimes I feel like I can write about people I’ve known and loved and sometimes I feel like doing so shakes the jar too hard and breaks it.

Fears, we all have them. I haven’t befriended mine but every Sunday I dread walking over the bridge to Monday. I’m never quite ready to leave the week and face a new one, even though I know time is an illusion.

Kitchen alchemy applies to mental health, too. Pepper. Cardamom. Cumin. Three spices that radically shift the taste of a dish—imbued with hope—expanding its scope.

“Becoming sane also causes a kind of narrative collapse, a confrontation with a personal history that is no longer recognizable,” writes Rachel Aviv in her latest, You Won’t Get Free of It.

Curiosity is an emotional risk.

Like I said, I had to learn how to stay when everyone else around me figured out that plotting one’s escape offered great relief.

I was gone ten years and no one ever mentioned how impossible it would feel to return. The self one forges on the road will eventually forget her way around the homestead.

“Everyone is the other and no one is himself,” wrote Heidegger. A quote I stumbled upon while reading a bit of Deborah Levy’s writings.

I forgot Heidegger had a wife. I was too obsessed with his affair with Hannah Arendt, and how her Jewish identity became quite the problem for these two lovebirds, how her intellect and ideas seemed to shrink in the world's eyes as hatred grew toward her people—and a systematic campaign ensued to kill them all.

“The appeal of writing as I understand it,” writes Levy, “was an invitation to climb in-between the apparent reality of things, to see not only the tree but the insects that live in its infrastructure; to discover that everything is connected in the ecology of language and living.”

My dear friend Jamie said as much on the porch the other night, looking at the triangle-shaped tree in front of us as we ate our blueberry crumble with whipped cream and iced cream. She’s a friend who’s studied trees and knows how many worlds coexist in their branches.

We sat on the floor later that night and read aloud letters she’d written to me from various locations in her twenties—the islands of Indonesia, the islands of Hawaii, the islands of the suburbs of Chicago. All along, we’ve been cheering each other on with words of encouragement.

​“Be strong,” she wrote to me more than once, “I’m here with you!”


She Who Sleeps in Late, you can introduce me as such these days. She Who Swims in Old Letters, my middle name. Lady of the Haunted Childhood Home, will do. Madame Writer of Micro-Essays With Unknown Readers, perhaps.

​She Who Carries Black-Glazed Gazelle Statues Home from the Thrift Store.


Anoint me, and I may annoy you. Recognize me, and I will reconfigure you. Name me, and I will remember your name, too.
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On my brief fling with moringa and an enduring belief in miracles

7/31/2026

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MY FLING WITH MORINGA began with a man named Mustapha, who planted hundreds of these trees on his farm and waxed poetic about their healing powers as a superfood that grew abundantly—and quite quickly—on the islands.

When we were dating, we often rambled over to the farms in his pick-up truck, which he drove in bare feet with the windows down and the radio blasting slow reggae. I felt like a queen by his side and let the setting sun soothe me as the car flung me into the side door while we dodged big dips in the scraggly dirt road.

I was falling in love with Mustapha, and he was falling in love with moringa, so I loved moringa, too. The workers he’d hired to harvest the leaves would hand us enormous bundles, and we’d take them back to the lodge, where the cooks agreed to pulverize them into a fine powder—in the hours between lunch and dinner, when the kitchen counters were cleared of dirty dishes and transformed into a superfood lab.

The cooks experimented with all kinds of moringa recipes. I’d take sips of cold moringa-infused fruit smoothies and swear by the electric boost they gave me, slurping up the last drops of passionfruit and pineapple to wash it all down. Mustapha believed in the miracle of moringa as a healing plant, and I threw myself into its story, writing pitches to magazines and promoting it to organic groceries back home.

The tree is truly miraculous—it’s one of the fastest-growing trees on the planet and produces nutrient-rich, vitamin-dense leaves with an earthy, nutty flavor. Some say the leaves contain seven times the vitamin C found in oranges and twenty-five times more iron than spinach.

Mustapha and I got hooked on these fruit smoothies—we loved that morning moringa buzz, like caffeine without the jitters or heart palpitations. The lodge eventually put moringa smoothies on the menu, and guests seemed to love them.

When I flew back to Chicago in 2017, I thought I’d return right away. But my mom was slowly dying, and my family needed me, and I needed to stay still and stay put for a second. Still, while I was back home, I remained obsessed with the miracle of moringa and insisted that Mustapha and his friend Omi send me moringa powder to peddle in the US.

Mind you, this was before moringa went mainstream—it was still pretty fringe, and I felt compelled to preach the moringa gospel.


While renting a condo in Logan Square, I received an enormous package in the mail—nearly five pounds of pounded moringa in plastic bags that had torn open, spilling green powder everywhere.

Somehow, it felt like a miracle that moringa had arrived at all.
I ran to the American Science & Surplus store and picked up cheap glass bottles with lids. I spent several afternoons and evenings scooping the powder into small jars and trying to sell it to friends and family, complete with a handy one-pager I'd composed highlighting all its healing benefits.

What a time to be alive—dealing in the miracle of moringa while my mother was dying and I was trekking between two very different worlds.

"How cool would it be to offer fresh, organic moringa at a reasonable cost, straight from the island of Zanzibar, in small batches approved and inspected by all the necessary authorities?"

I sent emails with questions like this to local grocers and cafés.

I genuinely believed there might be a future importing small batches of organic moringa directly from Zanzibar. I pictured cafés, health-food stores, even farmers markets. It held the promise of keeping one foot in the life I thought I'd return to.

When I read those emails now, I barely recognize myself, but I still love her. I sense myself trying desperately to hold onto the miracle of moringa and the miracle of finding meaning in the man I was loving at a time when my mom was disappearing and I had no idea how I would ever find my way back home again.

I even spent an afternoon touting moringa’s benefits at a local co-op kind enough to entertain its value. I still feel thankful to the young woman with long dreadlocks and a pungent patchouli smell for taking me seriously and eagerly responding to my emails labeled, "Moringa Magic!"

Nothing ever came of it, but the encounter reassured me that wherever there’s an idea and energy behind it, there are people willing to encourage it.

Moringa’s everywhere now. Smoothies. Pasta. Lotions. Potions. You can buy it online and at your local organic grocery—or wherever you buy your healing supplies. It’s gratifying to see its benefits become more visible to the wider world, even though local people have always known about this magical tree.

Mustapha and I were never cut out to become moringa dealers, after all. He’d hired twelve families to work on his farms on the southeast coast, and the arrangements he made with them—mostly young families from the mainland—never made sense to me. Was this sustainable?

I always felt uneasy when we visited. I’d ask too many questions: Where exactly did everyone sleep? Where did the kids go to school while their parents worked in the fields?

But it wasn’t just the farms or my feelings about them. I was stuck between worlds and needed to find my way home, to plant roots of my own. I was never going to figure out how to import magical moringa powder or invent new reasons to fly back and forth across the world for it—or for Mustapha.
​

I miss moringa, but I’m not jonesing for it the way I used to—or believed I was—at the height of my obsession. It did help my headaches, though, and I’m thinking about ordering a packet online just to see if it might boomerang me back to that old moringa buzz—and my belief in miracles.
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On finding the stories that actually want to be written

7/28/2026

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FOR YEARS, I’ve been writing essays about my life in Zanzibar, an Indian Ocean archipelago just off the coast of mainland Tanzania.

​I spent nearly a decade there—when my friends at home were having babies and growing families and climbing work ladders and attempting to have it all—I was having palm tree days and fresh cut pineapples on the beach.


I wrote dispatches about my life on these islands for an online magazine called “Contrary: The Journal of Popular Discontent,” and for a while, I felt like I had somewhat of a handle on the story as it was unfolding—the story of a woman who left Chicago in her early thirties for a slower life on the Swahili coast.

I still have a selfie I took when I first returned to the islands after a fling with a man I’d met there while traveling—it’s me in a headscarf, sitting in front of rows of old, green post office boxes with stencil lettering—on a weekend trip to Bagamoyo with the guy who became my boyfriend.

I'm wearing a pair of vintage keys around around my neck. How poetic! 

This was a time of taarab and tamarind, walks in the ruins of ancient kings, self-guided tours through shipwrecks, motorcycle rides through sleepy Swahili towns, mosquito-bitten, gecko-winked nights with a new love.

I thought I’d gather all the essays I eventually wrote for Contrary and put them into a book—a collection of essays focused on self-exile, faith, belonging, and home. I even had a working title for the book—and hired several editors over the years to work with me on it.

Understandably, they had a lot of questions for me—what was my “why now” and what was the story inside these essays that I really wanted to tell?

Over the years, I got defensive about these questions—postured with an academic stance—I wanted religion to be the thread that ran through this collection. I wanted my first book to address heady questions of faith and belief with the poetic muscle of Didion, the anthropological heart of Behar.

I kept chiseling away at these essays over the years. Added details, took others away, reordered and refined the words as they first appeared, overlaid new paragraphs with perspectives layered by the current me telling me about my past.

This all got very confusing.

I realized how hard I was fighting the story I really wanted to tell—about the men I loved there and the way these relationships shaped my connection to this place.

I didn’t want to tell a boring love story—or even worse—perpetuate the tropes of the foreigner who falls in love with a local and cue the problems that ensue. I wanted to tell a different story about Zanzibar, one about all the ways in which this place—so steeped in Islam—brought me closer to my own faith as a Jewish woman.

Yes, that’s a huge part of the story and it’s woven into every essay that’s survived all these edits and iterations. But I haven’t yet allowed myself to trek the full narrative arc of two men—Ali and Mustapha—who each played a major role in my Zanzibar story.

And I realize now that my book will never feel complete unless I at least allow myself to lay down my heart along this path, and say what needs to be said, with a wildly subjective curiosity.

Do I want my book of essays to focus just on the failure of these absurd entanglements with men who could never really love me because they would never know me? No, I don’t. I want so much for my essay collection to speak to larger questions:

  1. Why do you leave home?
  2. What do you learn over there?
  3. How do you find your way back?

But these two men—their peculiarities in this particular place—have much to do with question two, and by the end of this year, I have given myself permission to write into the details I’d been working hard over the years to ignore.

To tell the truth about why I left home I need to confess it was for a man with a missing tooth and limp.

To tell the truth about what I learned over there, I need to confess it was my involvement with two different mad men that made me learn how to navigate this world without fear.

To tell the truth about how I found my way back, I need to confess that I couldn't leave until I was no longer running from my future, but toward it.

Writing about your own life is fucking hard.

The memories change as we change. We’re making it up as we go along. But some threads need gathering to weave a tale, and without the essential braids, there are inevitably holes in the story we’re trying to wrap around ourselves.
​

Here’s to editing and writing our way through the uncertainty until we finally find the stories waiting to be told.
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On living life as a traveler, far away and within

7/8/2026

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TRAVEL FAR NOW, my life’s motto. I’ve used the phrase as my social media handle for so many years that I can no longer remember when it began. But it reaches far enough back to a time when I was still traveling great distances—from one place to another—as casually as walking around the corner to the convenience store.

To travel far and do it now was my mission when I was younger. It began with a high school semester in Jerusalem, on a leafy campus among other Jewish teenagers from around the world. It was 1993. A few students had visited Israel with their families from Sarajevo, never to return to their war-torn country.

I came back to Skokie with wide-eyed wonder, having caught a glimpse of a world pulsating with stories that made my heart leap off cliffs of curiosity. I wanted more of that feeling. I wanted to devour it whole and emerge on the other side standing on a mountaintop of self-awareness.

Travel does not quite work like that, though. I was still me wherever I went, however far.

I had the privilege and honor of traveling farther still, this time to Kenya with a student group from liberal arts colleges. My heart-mind kept leaping through new hoops of self-awareness. I fell asleep in Swahili fishing villages thinking I finally belonged somewhere. I woke up with a coastal consciousness, feeling sure I'd been here before. 

In my twenties, I threw myself into learning languages—Spanish, Arabic, Hebrew, Swahili—and wherever I went, I spoke with the naïve but courageous abandon of someone who believed that if she tried hard enough, she could talk herself into knowing every alphabet. I thank everyone I met for the patience and grace they showed me—this kind of eagerness can get irksome, I realize now.
 

Every time I returned home believing I knew something about the world, or about my place in it, I only wanted more. To go deeper, farther, harder, for longer stretches of time, to turn myself inside out, to test the limits and edges of a self inside a culture.

I asked questions. I took notes. I kept hundreds of journals detailing the conversations that flowed from an open-hearted approach to reaching my next destination. I said yes to invitations for coffee. I counseled lost pilgrims at bus stations. I danced at strangers’ weddings.

Travel far now, I kept telling myself.

For a decade, I lived at the edge of other worlds, on an island in the middle of an ocean. I could not swim, and I often felt more fear than trust in the waves. I learned to live with the sun and its demands. I learned to live with unpredictable weather, unpredictable patterns, unpredictable people, and their needs. I learned to recognize the pain in the pit of me as anxiety.

As I got older, I realized that this motto—this mandate to travel far now—was as much an inner journey as one that might fling me toward other shores. The pandemic gave me time to learn again how to rhyme with rituals and prayers. Like so many others, I began a spiritual trek that led me to the doorstep of the Christian mystics.

Simone Weil and Thomas Merton lit a match or two. The saints came marching home to me: the ones in Naples, the ones in New Mexico, the ones sleeping in the grottos of quiet Wisconsin towns.
I wanted to spend more time on the trails within. I needed the quiet and sunlight reserved for contemplatives. I hungered for space and time to divine a future that did not require another ticket or passport.

I was so tired, I am still so tired. My body doesn’t cooperate with schedules or sudden changes in them, the way it used to bend into any shape necessary to meet the demands of the trip.

So I got going—traveling far now within—at the speed of self-trust.

I learned how to time travel through vintage objects: the kind that transport us with the pull of a string, the tug of a rope, the spring of a button. These are objects that hold the cellular particles of a larger truth. I trade in their stories now, a memory merchant of sorts—a term I did not invent, but one I have adopted for the particular ways I spend my days.

I have not been on a plane in a few years. The last time I traveled overseas, I went to Italy in a heatwave and swore I would never do that again, at least not in July.

But of course I will travel again.

I am called to Kano, called to the deserts of New Mexico, called to the shores of Michigan. I am a double Sagittarius. I will see you in Vermont or Venice before too long.

Still, I remind myself that rest stops on the inner roads are gracious and spacious. I like it here inside myself, where the days are long and the nights promise a big, fat moon for a lamp to guide the way.

Once, I drove from Chicago to Vermont in a day and stopped only once for coffee at a gas station so close to the finish line that it barely counted. I never want to drive that far alone again—unless it is within.

Reading is another kind of travel. We all know this. When I read a book about a road trip, I want to get in the car, take my dog for a drive, and never return. I used to play a game with an ex every time we reached a new town. The game was called “I Could Live Here,” and we would spin tales about the alternative lives that might unfold if we stopped and stayed awhile.

Because we spoke those lives into existence, I sometimes think some version of them carries on in ribbons of reality in the places we merely passed through. I cannot be certain of that. But I know there is still some part of me alive in the places where I lived longest. If I return—no, when I return—my body will click back into the grooves I once made with my being in that space and continue the living I did there.

Travel far now, out there. Travel far now, within.
​

I am still finding words to explain this motto—this orientation, this philosophy—but maybe I do not need to explain it after all. We are all travelers together in this world. We are all just passing through, aren’t we?
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On setting sail on one's own star and following your inner compass

6/27/2026

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DON’T SET SAIL on someone else’s star, says one Swahili proverb I turned to often when I lived in Zanzibar. I’d see this phrase a lot on the kanga cloth, a colorful textile of text and image sold in pairs at the local market, and the saying stuck with me while living on the islands, where navigation metaphors are everywhere.

In a place where everyone’s eyes are on each other, the saying steers the individual to navigate life on their own terms, finding their own north star to light the way. Easier said than done in a place bound by the power of cultural collectivity—to strike out on one’s own was often met with side eyes and suspicion, if not outright disdain—sailing solo seemed strange.

I arrived in Stone Town alone from the United States when I was around thirty-three years old, young enough to make moves like this, old enough to know better than to stay for a decade without a plan in place for how to return.

I’d set sail on what I thought was my own star, and yet when I shook the inner compass for direction, I tended to stall out there in still waters, my toes no longer touched the mud of ocean floors.

To be honest, I wasn’t a very good swimmer, and I chose to live on an island when I was afraid of the ocean.

Way-finding is more art than science.

I came across the Instagram account of a young woman currently kayaking from California to Hawaii across the Pacific Ocean—she has all the navigational bells and whistles at her fingertips—and yet, she described how the hardest part of the journey so far had been finding her way out of the harbor closest to the shoreline.

She had to fight against fierce winds just to make it out onto the open sea.

And so she did and lived to tell about it, reporting live from the middle of the ocean, telling her viewers what it’s like to make contact with a young captain of a cargo ship, who’d called her when he saw her floating and assumed she was in distress, and asked if she needed any help.

“No,” she replied, “I’m just waiting for better winds,” or something like that.

And the young man, who said he was from China, sailing from Peru back to his home country, asked the kayaker for her email address, hoping he’d hear from her when she reached Hawaii.

Before anyone leaves on a big trip like that, they have to visualize where they’re going even though they can’t yet see it on the horizon. We spend most of our days out at proverbial sea, don’t we, visualizing where we’re headed if we’re working on consciousness, though much of our motion is motivated by trust in the unseen self that exists over there in the future of victorious arrivals.

If I picture my heart like a perfect apple, it will be so, and I’ll love with a sweetness and a wholeness only an apple can embody. And if I picture my heart like a black cherry and worship it as one does with fruits of this ferocity of deliciousness, I’ll love with a tenderness only a black cherry can evoke.

And if I visualize to some extent where I want to go—however winding, however unwieldy—I’ll eventually get there, because I’m already there in my mind’s eye, and neuroscientists say we can’t tell the difference anyway!
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But the problem with me—and maybe with you—is that I have to know what I want, and that’s the hardest part, because I learned at some point that wanting was a waste, and wanting led to suffering, and wanting wanted to want more of itself. I hung out here in this headspace for a while, letting myself make one move and then the next, congratulating myself for going with the flow.

Which is a very fine way to go—where the wind blows—sure! Now, though, I’m wanting more to work with the winds and trade with them my secrets for the gift of their power—so that I can arrive at a future version of myself that will greet me and welcome me back home from the long, long journey.
​
All of us probably have an innate, instinctive sense of where we want to go—it’s a game I play with myself these days to name it and orient in that direction—even if I can’t see it yet, I trust it’s there, and I’m on my way!
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On prayer and praise for patron saints and minibus poetics

6/12/2026

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OUR LADY OF EXPECTATION—patron saint of storms—stares at me from the wall near my desk. I have a postcard image of her wearing a hot pink spray-painted cloak, a golden crown of glory. We’ve needed her over the last few days—lightning strikes, thunder bolts, tree branches split, leaves still dripping with rain, flooded viaducts (such a Chicago word)—we pray to you, Lady Zapopan, adorned with stars, queen of heaven.

I wake up with a writing reminder on my wall, too: “Say what needs to be said!” “Speak with a subjective curiosity!” Two instructions received in a workshop a while back, when I was feeling lost as a writer and didn’t believe I’d spent all these years scratching words to form sentences that seemed to vanish when I went back to read them. How miraculous that words stitched together on the page seem to stay put in ways that other words wander off into chimera.

Throat, defined. Identity, opened. Mind, defined. Head, opened. Solar plexus, defined. Heart, open. These are the notes I took on human design when I studied these systems during the pandemic—when I was spending hours and hours alone, dreaming up reasons why I’d returned after escaping the story I’d been given.

How strange to wake up and find out that you are the eyes of the world. You thought I was quoting a 1973 Dead song, but I'm also echoing a line from the fourteenth-century Dzogchen teachings of the Tibetan Buddhist master Longchenp. What does it mean? You are the universe experiencing itself.

OK, work with that. Yes, I am.

I collaborate with the light, the way I study pain. I discuss the elements with flowers, the way I stuff the end of a green onion root back into the black dirt. I talk with the birds the way I rally the roses to hush with their thorns. I remember making peace with water, when I lived on an island, the way you can’t pluck a sea urchin’s spiny needles once they’ve punctured through the skin.

YOU ARE NEXT reads a sign on the back of a minibus roaring down the pocked road along the coast, a ladder leading up to the roof, a picture of Bob Marley plastered to the back window. You are next! As in—next to die, or next to arrive?

I used to obsess over the cryptic poetry of public transport in Tanzania and Zanzibar, the way these masters of poetry said their peace in paint before they got behind the wheel to take us anywhere, together, in a cloud of human perfumes—sweat, salt, tears, coconut oil, fish gunk, oud—a menagerie.

You are next. Forgive them, they don’t know any better. Don’t play with me. Give me your report. There is no reason. Most wanted. Life goes on. Don’t worry. Just loveness. Dream came true. Fight for your conditions.

Climb aboard and get where you’re going, we learn throughout life. Arrive and stay for a while. Gather your trinkets and lessons. Leave with an impression, and leave one, too. Energy’s a real thing that lingers in the hands we shake and the eye contact we make and the bread we bake and the give we give and the take we take. Village life taught me this, though I don’t always practice it.
​

My daddy smiles at me like a patron saint of jazz and joy in his wool jacket and stylish black wool cap, a man with a beard trimmed just how he likes it, forever. Hello, daddy, coming through in the cosmic window provided, through neighborly messages of love and appreciation. And so we know you’re here forever and always, you were next, and I’m next right after you.
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On traveling through a heatwave in Naples and meeting a patron saint

6/11/2026

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IN ROME on that first morning together, the three of us were still friends—from another time and place—together again. We’d met a long time ago in Zanzibar, when we were different people, but we’d stayed in touch and missed each other enough to find a way to meet again in Italy, in the middle of a July heatwave.

Italian officials had warned against going outside during the day, urging people to stay indoors during the worst of the heat. But what choice did we have but to saunter over to the corner cafe for macchiatos and pastries, feeling sorry for the panting dogs on leashes tied up to street signs, waiting desperately for their sun-stroked owners to return.

It was there at a patio table in the shade where we planned our trip to Naples, the beloved city where A had grown up. I was coming from Chicago, where I’d been taking care of my dad, and P had come from Copenhagen, where she was unraveling plans for a Ph.D. and reconsidering next steps. We’d decided to stay in Rome just a few days and then head out by train to the city by the sea.

A wanted us to love Naples the way she did, and I wanted that too.

Our days there were fraught—the heat was one thing, the disconnect between the three of us another. Meanwhile, A's young daughter watched it all unfold, trying to make sense of three cranky ladies from three different countries struggling to agree on how to spend a day together in a city so strained by the circumstances. 

The mornings were always hopeful—to explore this ancient city bursting with cultural history and culinary delights—but by midday, I could barely take a step without the world spinning. The place where we stayed had a few ceiling fans but that was about it, and so I found a bit of peace in the darkened room, where half-empty water bottles piled up on the bedside table.

We tried each day to regroup and organize around the heat, but our plans were often thwarted by one thing or another—a lack of will or possibility—and we all suffered from inertia. In my exhausted state, I began to dread facing another day of Naples—the shouting and honking seemed louder, the bustle more demanding, the city's energy harder for me to meet.

One afternoon, I set out for a walking adventure on my own. I got so lost, zig-zagging up and down cobblestone staircases and narrow paths, that I could barely find my way back. I remember stopping to marvel at the little altars everywhere. At one point, I surrendered and lay down on a ledge, crossing my legs and covering my face with a scarf, unwilling to believe I would ever find my way back. I stared up at the laundry flapping in the wind and felt grateful for the breeze that made it possible.
​

I envied the people tucked away in darkened living rooms with their televisions blaring and wished I was home, too.
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We were experienced travelers, the three of us, with the disposition to be pleased, even in difficult dynamics that required flexibility and trust. But on this trip, for reasons we could not quite name, we never managed to sync up our desires, and so we tugged and pulled against each other to find our footing.

The city thronged with tourists as desperate as we were to cool down and find a bit of shade, and so the cavernous, cool churches filled with the quiet footsteps of anyone seeking refuge from the relentless stalking of the sun.

It was there in one of the churches, the Cathedral of Saint Gennaro, where I had the honor of meeting the holy patron saint of Naples. Once I knew his story and what he looked like, I saw him everywhere, on rings and pendants, posters and postcards, murals and memorials.

Gennaro lived in the fourth century as a Christian eventually beheaded for showing compassion toward those imprisoned for their beliefs. Legend has it that a devout woman saved some of his blood in a glass vial now kept in the Naples Cathedral, and each year, people gather to see if the dried blood liquefies, showering the city with blessings.

A told me how Neapolitans pray to him for protection from disasters—fires, earthquakes, plagues, volcanic eruptions—heatwaves. In every emergency Saint Gennaro comes through as a “powerful champion and universal helper.” And oh, how we needed his protection and intervention.

We passed by many windows displaying jewels with the saint’s face on it. Eventually, A popped into one shop and bought herself a beautiful Saint Gennaro ring.

A difficult trip can test even the best and strongest friendships. This one nearly broke us—the bickering, the backlash, the bitterness, the brittleness—it all became much too much for any of us to handle, each for our unique and various reasons too nuanced and detailed to enumerate here in this small recollection of events.

The trip radically rearranged our friendship, and this makes me sad, but I also understand how these things go, and went, and continue going.

When I close my eyes and think about Naples, I think of the holy presence of their saints to sense the way through and forward. I wish I could have spent a bit of time in that city without the oppressive heat to define our fate. Maybe one day the saints will call me back for a visit and a prayer.
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On remembering Pemba—honey, ghosts and ruins

6/9/2026

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A BOAT RIDE to Pemba nearly threw me overboard. The sea rose high and furious, and all of us passengers were tossed around like dolls with loose limbs and empty grins. I crouched down, rested my head on the seat, and held on for dear life as the waves whipped us around and sent some of us flying.

When we finally reached the shoreline, I felt fully scrambled and unable to comprehend what the rest of the week would be like because I was too worried about having to take the same boat back to Unguja, the main island where I’d been living with this man who swore a trip to Pemba would delight us both.

On that first day wandering through the markets, I bought an enormous glass bottle full of the island’s famous amber honey, pristine liquid gold spun from the magic of bees and their keepers on an island known as much for its honey as for its ghosts.

This was a place where time indeed stood still—where questions of empire or commerce hung in the air like heavy clouds already emptied of rain—and where fans whirred forever inside empty cafés. The island lacked any infrastructure for tourists; public minibuses left for certain villages only once a day, so I followed my ex around as if he knew where he was going.

The days were hot and the nights muggy, thick with mosquitoes and the shrieks of bats. We spent a few nights in Wete and Chake Chake, the town with the abandoned cinema. In the evenings, I spoke in whatever Swahili I could muster with my ex’s relatives, who looked at me with eyes awaiting gifts from the greater island of Unguja.

In the ruins of this place, where only the lush green trees still thrived as if political despair had never touched them, everyone seemed to exist in a state of waiting—except the trees, and maybe the flying foxes.

Pembans, shamed and shunned for their political tendencies toward revolution within the revolution, often moved to Unguja, not the other way around. Anyone who stayed behind felt forgotten, or so it was conveyed to me.

I have not been to Pemba in many years now, so it surprises me that I’m writing about it. I think it’s because I’ve been reading a novel about a traveler who lets her heart open to strangers along the way, and whose journey unfolds through this willingness to be led.

I was like that for a time—letting strangers love me and lead me into their homes for fresh mango juice and a rest on a woven mat in a patch of sunlight, like a weary cat. How gorgeous it was to live in pockets of time without caring about clocks or calendars.

I remember Pemba as a dream, but certain feelings come through as real enough to report back.

One night on that trip, we stayed in a village shrouded by trees where my ex’s relatives lived. We bought a huge bag of candy at the tiny kiosk near the house, with only a few flickering lanterns to light the way. When we returned with the bag, all the children in the village swarmed me on the porch, their little arms reaching toward me, begging for a piece.

Another night, the clerk at a sleepy guesthouse asked my ex for our marriage certificate and refused to rent us a room without it. We pleaded with him to believe we were married and had simply forgotten the documents at home. He begrudgingly allowed us to stay a few nights, and each morning at breakfast, over cups of milky chai and toasted squares of white bread, I felt a strange shame about lying to him.

I think it’s because I already knew I was with a man I would eventually have to leave, and that he would make it difficult for me to do so. So I sipped my milky spiced chai and made him smile for a photo. I still have that snapshot somewhere in my records, the tub of Blue Band butter sitting on the crowded table.

We argued for much of that trip—about where to go and how to get there—stopping frequently for smoke breaks under the shade of hot tin awnings, dust kicking up around our ankles. But we also found a way to weave through the heat and confusion, finding moments of pleasure along the way, deep fried chips mayai and all, with a side of pili-pili.

We visited ancient ruins, walked through broken towns, toured archival sites, met aunties and cousins, and talked with locals about the jealous well, the hungry ghosts, and the bitter comrades of a communist past. We shook hands with teachers and bakers, greeted tropical birds and village kids who forced me to sing Celine Dion songs with them as we passed through town trying to reach the next place.

It was a difficult trip to a forgotten place, and I’m so glad I went—and that I still have photos to help me remember it. If I’m not mistaken, the boat ride back to Unguja was nowhere near as violent.
​
​The winds were in our favor.
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On friendships that migrate through time and cities

6/7/2026

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DARE I SAY I’ve been to Paris, when I was only nineteen and broke and couldn’t afford a single meal at an actual restaurant? I took a bus there with Marla, an American friend who was living in Amsterdam at the time. We were super close in high school and I’d flown out to visit her in the hopes that we’d reconnect for a European adventure together.

But when I arrived, she announced that she was newly in love with an older man who lived in the same building two floors below, so I ended up spending more time with her flatmates than her, making grand communal meals in the evenings, walking to and from the markets alone. It was fine, I liked learning about all thedifferent kinds of cheeses available in a Dutch grocery, but this wasn’t the trip I’d intended.

Then one night I got robbed—something about junkies who slept in the basement where hundreds of bikes are stored and it’s easy to hide—and once these guys were inside the building, they’d roam the floors, checking open flats. A few got into ours and then rummaged through my closet—while I was still sleeping apparently—and stole most of the cash I’d brought with me to Amsterdam for the visit—earned from babysitting and catering gigs at home.

So Marla suggested a weekend trip to Paris—a reset of sorts—to see the Eiffel Tower and tour all the fabulous art museums. Also, she’d gotten in a fight with her boyfriend and declared the need for space from the grayness of Amsterdam in early winter. So we boarded a night bus bound for the city of lights and all that it could offer us as young travelers. I was excited. I still had a few hundred dollars left to my name and didn’t own a credit card in these before times without the internet or smartphones—but I believed it was enough.

We found a room at a Catholic hostel in the Latin Quarter and soon realized that we’d signed up for a curfew—up by 7 a.m. each morning for a light breakfast of baguettes with butter and jam, back by 10 p.m. each night—no exceptions. We quickly figured our money wouldn’t get us very far beyond the parks and promenades.

I remember walking around that city aimlessly for hours feeling no love for any of it—we were too broke to eat anywhere and Marla was too lovesick anyway to care. We’d walk past the fancy patios where diners clinked their glasses full of envy. I remember buying cans of tuna and cracking them open on the French manicured lawns of grand parks, gnawing on yet more bread and wishing I was elsewhere—anywhere—but there!

Can I say I’ve even been to Paris in such circumstances? I barely remember any of it but I do have evidence of that trip in the form of a friendship that carried on for years afterward.

One evening at the hostel we met Graciana, a young solo traveler from Argentina. She was sitting on her bed with all of the contents of her backpack dumped out on the bedspread, and she was sorting through it all. I want to say she was crying—at least distraught—enough to ask her what was wrong.

“I’m homesick!” she confessed, telling us how she’d flown here from Buenos Aires for a trip around Europe that she’d saved for but was now feeling so desperate and sad that she wanted to go home and forget the whole thing. We rallied around the idea that she should stay and spent a few whole days with her walking around aimlessly, together.

I adored her story—how her family had come from Eastern Europe and resettled in Buenos Aires after the second war—how she had Jewish roots, how everyone she knew was in some kind of therapy, how she loved languages and cultures and wanted to experience all of them. We were so young, so curious, so ready for endless conversations.

When it was time to leave Paris, she rode the bus back with us to Amsterdam, if I’m not mistaken! I eventually flew back home to Chicago, and the friendship with Marla slowly fizzled—and then fried.

But Graciana and I stayed in touch for many years—I ended up visiting her and her boyfriend in her home city of Buenos Aires, and again six years later in Mexico City, when they were already married with twins.

I flew to Buenos Aires in 2003, as the city faltered under the weight of its financial crisis. I'd come to see a friend but made it a point to reconnect with Graciana. I remember how she introduced me to Proyecto Venus (Project Venus) and the concept of “Venus Dollars,” a community-based currency shared among artists and creatives as a project designed to rebuke the destructive forces of capitalism. The idea was that members could trade goods and services—editorial to legal, cleaning to cooking—completely outside standard capitalistic structures. She took me once to a bookshop and pointed out an entire shelf of books that you could purchase with "Venus" dollars. 

The project had started just before the financial collapse and while people lined up at banks demanding what was left of their savings, the project picked up across the city among artists and creatives grasping at alternatives. I remember protests erupting in the streets—people had lost nearly all of their money—and yet the Louis Vuitton shop was still open. For those shopping with American dollars, everything was a steal. No one else could afford it. Inflation soared and Argentines with money in the bank lost 70 percent of its value in the blink of an eye. 

The situation was tense, no doubt. But I remember how Graciana's days were filled with hope in her friends, tiny books and small presses, long talks at street-side cafes fueled by cup after cup of potent espressos, a view of the future still rooted in the arts.
 And we bonded over poetry—she wrote poems of her own in Spanish and I remember how she obsessed over lines of Walt Whitman in translation, a lover of language and words. She was working on a small cultural exchange business at that time with a group of friends who led tours of the city to tourists. 

We continued to stay in touch, mostly through letters. Six years later in Mexico, while visiting another friend, I reconnected with Graciana again. I remember how we visited Frida Kahlo’s blue house in Coyoacán, an epic and spiritual visit for both of us. I sensed a shift in her then, a mother of two sons, with a focus more on marketing trends than poetry, and a restlessness to move again, but she was also still the same curious person with a bright light in her heart, if a bit more anxious then. We were both older and trying to feel our way toward uncertain futures. 
​

And then, for one reason or the other we lost touch. The last time I heard from her was about ten years ago! But when I think of Paris, I think of Graciana and the friendship that bloomed there between us under such fleeting circumstances. There’s not any one single reason why haven’t spoken—not that I can recall—it’s just that life spins us all out in different directions. But I remember our shared love for poetry—and a mutual will to find beauty wherever we went—no matter how lost we both felt on the road.
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On yahweh power and hiding out in god's face

5/24/2026

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GOD APPEARED TO ME through the leaves and the trees when I was a kid and then not for a long while—that stretch of schooling when rational thinking and material evidence ruled—until I was on my own long enough to start having conversations again with the invisible.

I learned to pray and I learned to convey my requests and I learned to convert faith into a more secular—and socially acceptable—hope. But faith is a much more enduring presence than hope, which often feels fleeting.

I memorized my torah portion at the age of thirteen, commanded to craft an essay on the themes within it. Imagine, at this age, having to say something to a room full of congregants about the deeper meaning of darkness?

But I tried, oh, I tried. God had already told me by that time that I was a poet, a scribe, and I abided. My parents hoped I’d hold ongoing conversations with god but I grew up at a time when loving god and expressing love for god was not cool—it was, at the very least, private—and at most, much too much.

There’s something sweet about believing that god believes in you. I think I held onto that even if I wasn’t talking about it to anyone, not even myself. It’s easy to lose faith in god and still pray to the out-there presence of an infinite beyond and say, “help me,” and “see me,” and “protect me.”

Traveling to places where god’s presence was so obvious, undeniable, and enduring made it easier to start weaving god-presence into my existence. I thank those I met in Zanzibar for reintroducing me to a holy presence in everyday life.

Call to prayer, everywhere. Every time I ate, a prayer on the lips. Every time I entered or exited a doorway, a prayer behind or in front of me. Every time I said hello or goodbye, a prayer for me and the other. Life got rearranged around protection, peace and love, on high.

I learned (or learned again) that all has already been written. I learned (or learned again) that we are puzzle pieces in an immense scattered picture of the universe. I learned how my breath and presence and attempts at consequential kindness held profound meaning.

When I wasn’t talking to god—when I was hiding myself from the gaze of god—when I forgot how to hide myself in god’s face—I was also reeling from the feeling that I didn’t know where I was going or why I’d ended up anywhere.

I thank the Christian mystics for giving me some language for this. 

I was raised in a Jewish home—but not the kind that stitched me into a community of believers—ours was more of a collective nod to a history that had hurried away from us. I circled the faith like an American teenager would—with a side-eyed curiosity.

My parents never talked much about their feelings about Judaism or their connection to Jewish life. But my dad always praised yahweh—and that’s the name he used often and always—the most sacred name for god in the holy scriptures.

“Yahweh power’s where it’s at!” he’d chant to us as girls. Can you imagine? I am who I am. I am the one who exists. Daddy! This was the kind of god-love I grew up with—a cheer from the tired jazz man who worked a day job as an English teacher. Daddy, who worshipped music as if it was god himself in a robe of songs!
​

At fifty, I find it’s easier and most relieving to praise yahweh on walks in the woods, in bird sanctuaries—the magic hedge—the edge of lakes, the fuzzy dunes, all that houses and protects the divine—houses of worship, of course, but also the least expected residences—the nest, the cave, the cloud.
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    Essays by Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

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    Bio:

    Amanda Leigh Lichtenstein is a writer, poet, editor and vintage collector based in Skokie, Illinois. 

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